Hey guys, it's Dalton Vaughn with Better Outdoors here, and in this video we're going to show you how to adjust the draw length on some of the most popular PSE bows for 2016.
We get a ton of calls, a ton of emails on how to adjust these bows, especially the Stinger X which is this one, the performance setting, the "grow with you" setting, same with the Mini Burner and a lot of the other bows in the lineup that the draw length can adjust so far on, which is something I really like about PSEs, is that they've thought this through, being able to adjust your draw length without a bow press. A lot of bows take modules nowadays, and that's fine, a lot of bows take cams and that's fine - the Full Throttle's one that takes specific draw length specific cams.
However, the rest of the PSE lineup adjust right in the cam. It's simple, it's easy, you can do this at home, I promise you cannot hardly mess this up. So, here we go.
Alright guys, we're fixing to start working on all these bows. We're going to need just one tool to do this if we do it right and that's going to be our PSE Torx Head Set. You can get these at your PSE dealer for around $20. You can also use any other Torx key set as long as you've got the T15 size. So, let's get into it.
Adjusting Draw Length on PSE Stinger X Compound Bow
Alright guys, we've got our Stinger X here. This is a 60 lb model bow. So, what we're going to keep in mind is the performance setting, cable setting, and the "grow with you cable" settings that are supplied with each bow. This is the card that's on the string stop if you see a new one or if you've ordered one and you're wondering where this is at, it's on this little card right here.
So, that all said, what we're going to do is figure out what draw length we need. Say we measured out our significant other, or son, or daughter and they measured around 24-25" inch draws. We just want to get them shooting, it's not got to be that precise. However, we're going to start where it's going to be the most comfortable. We're going to go down on this chart, let's go with K. That's a 24 1/4" draw, and it's supposed to be turned all the way down 12 turns. So we're going to be pulling around 33.5 lb. So, 33.5 lb. at 24 1/4" draw which is the K setting.
A lot of guys have called me, emailed me, asked me, "how do I get to the 'grow with you' setting with this bow?" Very very simple, guys. This is very simple for sure, but I know that it's tough working on these sometimes. However, this module is set on 29" right now - keep this in mind. It needs to be 29" to 30" to access the "grow with you" setting because there's a track right here that's open just to allow this cable to pass over there.
So what we're going to do is grab up on the cable of the bow just a little ways, get a little leverage on it. Turn down the bow, it's a lot easier to move. We're going to pull it out of that track. Zoom back in and show you where it's going to - it's going right in this gap. We're going to let it fall over into that gap, then we're going to push it in 'til it clicks. Once it clicks, it's seated, you're good. No more problems there. You're not going to pull it off the cable post, you're good to go on all that.
For the next step, we're going to turn the bow over to access the other side of the cam on the draw module screw side of the cam. We take our T15 kit here and we're going to adjust that. We're going to loosen up these two bolts right here about 3-4 turns. You don't want to pull them all the way out because it makes it hard to put it all back together in a hurry and easily so just loosen them up until it moves freely. We're going to move it over there.
Now pull against this cable a bit one way or another and it will kind of free this module up because sometimes that cable on that module won't allow it to turn. If that's the case, it's no big deal at all. We're going to loosen this up just a bit more, now it should turn with no issues now.
We remove our module. Now, if you see right in here, this track, all these holes are of course your module adjustment areas. If you see right in where K is I have the metal dowel that sticks out of the module to place the module where it's supposed to go in each draw length so it's a secure setting and it won't move.
Now some bows we've seen them where the little dowel was just a little bit too far out or too far in. All you have to do is pull the module out, take both bolts out, put it on the table and bump it with a hammer just a couple times and that's a worst case scenario. We've probably sold a hundred of these bows and I've only had to do that twice. So no big deal there, don't be worried you're going to tear anything up - you're not.
We're going to put this in K, you'll kind of feel it click in place there too. We'll tighten this right back up. You don't have to go too tight, you can just go decent enough. Tighten this other one right back up.
Now we've moved our module, but we still have one part to go and it's the draw stop. The draw stop, of course, is this little guy. It'll be rubber, have a rubber coating around it most of the time, and this is true for a lot of different bows out of the market. We're going to loosen this one up. Now actually I have to take this all the way off so don't lose either piece of this or the bow will not be functional. Pulled it out of there. Run the bolt back through at K.
Now on the end of this, on one side there's a star head like that, and on the other side there's the threads. Make sure the threaded end goes toward the screw. What you can do if you feel like you need to on some of the other bows, instead of just holding this draw stop and tightening it back up, just put another star head wrench in the back of it and tighten it all the way up.
So now we're at a 24 1/4" draw set on 33.5 lb with the Stinger X that was a 60 lb bow that was set right at 60 on a 29" draw.
Adjusting Draw Length on PSE Mini Burner XT Compound Bow
Adjusting that Stinger X wasn't that bad, just remember your "grow with you" settings and your performance settings are two different animals, they have different draw cycles, but they also drop the weight significantly. So if someone wants to shoot it as we said, you can turn it down, adjust the draw length, adjust the performance or "grow with you" setting, and they're able to shoot it.
Now the same is true on the Mini Burner XT as far as the "grow with you" setting, it's going to fall in that small channel where that cable fell into and then it's going to be that lower draw weight and not go to the peak weight. So if you've got a 40 lb bow it's going to turn down to around 25 or much less. So keep that in mind. Now, we've talked about that bow, we've adjusted it, now we're going to do the Brute Force.
Alright guys, we've got our Brute Force over here and we're set at a 29" draw which on this bow is the E or Echo setting, so we're set on Echo here. We want to go to say a 31" draw, and there's going to be a little trick involved in this. But first, we're going to loosen up our module screws that are right here and right here just like on the Stinger X, all the PSEs are going to be the same in that regard.
So we're going to loosen these two guys up, just about 'til they come out but not all the way, we don't want them flopping out of there - it makes for a mess, of course. It's not going to hurt anything, we just don't want to chase parts down. Now we've got it loose and able to move. Sometimes they get a little tough to move when they get to the end of their range, and it's no issue there, it's just a matter of pushing the module to where it needs to go. So we're going to adjust that, loosen this one up a bit more to make it a little easier.
Uh oh, we can't get to this bolt right here because it's behind the limb. But never fear. If you can see, this hole is another threaded hole for another module screw. All we've got to do is back our module back around, and pull this bolt out. We're going to go ahead and we're going to move this module over to the Alpha position which is 31" draw, all you've got to do is just wiggle it around and it will fall right into place. There's no real science to this, but it'll go on over there with no damage to the limb or cam or anything.
So we're set at the A position (Alpha position). We're going to tighten up this module bolt here. And now, we're going to put this little guy in that other hole, which is right in here. These have a little lock tight on them, so do be careful and don't tighten them up too terribly tight or you may end up stripping them trying to pull them out - nobody wants to do that.
So now we've got this module adjusted, we've got our Torx head module screws right in the right holes, and the module's set at a 31" draw. Now just like with the Stinger X, what we're going to do next is adjust our draw stop to match the A position on that cam. So here we go with that.
We're going to take this bolt right out of here just like we did with the Stinger X, pull it out of there, no problems there. Drop it right back in that hole, make sure the threaded end is up on that. We're going to screw that back together and we're back in action.
So we've taken this draw from a 29" draw to a 31", and it's just as simple to go back to M, which on this bow is a 25" draw, just as simple as moving those two bolts. Loosen those up, move them over. If it gets to where you can't get from behind the limb, just move one bolt into the other hole and you should be ready to go. Another example of not having to have a bow press to adjust your draw length. Very sweet, and this is for the Brute Force.
Adjusting Draw Length on PSE Brute Force Compound Bow
Alright guys, that was our adjustment for the Brute Force. Now those adjustments also cover the Bow Madness 32 and Bow Madness 34. However the Bow Madness 32 stops at a 30" draw so to access from 29" to 30" draw you're going to need to move that bolt that we had to move on this cam. On the Bow Madness 34, from the 29 1/2" to 30 1/2" draw which that bow goes to, also have to move the bolt. But for every other draw length you won't have to move the bolt. The module screw in that different hole, just put it in there like it was stock on the opposite sides of each other. Just always remember to move your module and move your draw stop together.
So now we've covered those three bows all in one hit. Let's move over to a Drive R and show you how to adjust the Drive cam from PSE.
Adjusting Draw Length on PSE Drive R Compound Bow
Alright guys, we've got our Drive R sitting here on the workbench, we're moving now. Now you're probably familiar with the Drive cam, this has been on a lot of the bows from PSE for the past few years - excellent cam system, I'm really happy with it. But, something I really like is we can take our old Torx set and we can adjust the draw length to what we need.
Now this bow right now as you can tell is set on the J setting. We want to move this on out to say 30 1/2" draw which is the max for this bow. Now while we're doing that, we're going to take into account which draw length we'll not be able to access without moving this bolt to another hole, which you'll be able to see just in one second.
So let's loosen this up and move this module. Loosen this one up a pretty good bit, and loosen this one up a pretty good bit again. Now, our module is loose and we can move it all we want to. If it binds up anywhere, just loosen your screws a bit, kind of wiggle the module, it'll move right where it needs to be and won't scratch anything.
So it appears with this bow from D to F you will have to move the bolt into this other position which you can see right in there. There's going to be your other hole for the draw module screw. So adjust this back out there to 30 1/2".
Sometimes it will get binded up a little when it's trying to pass the limb as there's not as much room in the cam there and we're going to get it right on past that without much trouble - sometimes. So got it moved, no big deal there. I'm showing y'all the real way this stuff goes and not the perfect example every time 'cause life's not perfect even though these bows are pretty dang close to it.
So we're on 30 1/2 setting right now on A (Alpha). Tighten these screws right back up just like we do on the other bows. Make sure that our little dowel is aligned in the A position, make sure that we get this tightened up. We don't want it slipping, and it is, and we're going to move our draw stop and that's going to take care of the Drive R's adjustment.
So we went all the way from a 26" draw to a 30 1/2" draw on the same bow without having to change anything but the position of the module, so that's pretty cool. Now we're going to move onto the next bit.
Adjusting Draw Length on PSE Inertia Compound Bow
We've got the Inertia now, and this is going to have the same cams as the Dream Season Decree. We're going to show you how to adjust this without a bow press. Now keep in mind that there's a few adjustments on this bow that are a little bit tougher to make unlike the other bows without a bow press, but we can make it happen.
Now guys, we've got the PSE Inertia to adjust. As you see, this bow's a little different than the others. It has three module screws. It's also got a little bit more of a defined dowel, right there in the bottom of the cam to be able to read from, so it's a little bit easier to see. This bow also has a top draw module, so both cams have got a draw module. This bow also has a limb stop as well as two cable stops, so you can see we've got a lot going on with this bow.
We're going to start with the bottom cam. Let me go ahead and preface this. It's very tough to get to the bolts and you may even have to pull one of the bolts out and just run with two, which is fine, however I would remember to go to a pro shop on this particular bow to be able to put that last bolt together or press it.
From K, J, and I, you won't be able to get to this bolt, but you will be able to get to these two bolts. This one also has a bolt hole right here next to this one to put this one to make it easier to access if you need to.
With all that said, we want to take this bow from the 27 1/2 we're in and we want to move it all the way out to 30 which is going to be A. We're in F right now for Foxtrot. Let's grab our wrenches and let's adjust that real quick.
Do it just like the rest - don't pull them out too far but don't leave them too tight or it makes it hard to move. This demo bow has been adjusted a lot so it's a little bit easier. We're going to loosen it up, move it all the way out here to A because we can get to all of these bolts with no problem on A. We're going to tighten that back up real quick like, no issue there.
I do like the fact that this bow has three screws on it, so that makes it a little more handy, a little better design sometimes just if you're ever worried about the module bolts coming loose, it's fine. So we've got that adjusted. Now we're going to move our draw stop to A. Make sure we move both of our draw stops for the full let off. That's loosened, that's moved, and we're fixing to have this little model good to go.
Now the bottom cam is set to a 30" draw. Let's not go drawing it back just yet. We've got the top cam for the Inertia here, and this is going to be the same for the Dream Season Decree, of course, but what we've got going here is a limb stop, a cable stop, just like the rest of our bows have, and a module, so this is the top cam.
Now what I like to do before I move anything is to move this limb stop as far out of the way as possible so as not to interfere with my timing or any of that, stop the cam short, any of that good stuff. But I get it out of the way since we're going to a 30" draw this is actually going to be close to contact to the limb, but you can actually take that all the way off, don't let that intimidate you, you don't have to have that. But it does shoot really good with the limb stop, as y'all have seen in the review.
Now we're going to move these three bolts just like we did on the other one to move the draw length on out there. Now do keep in mind that H, I, and J you will not be able to access all three bolts on, so you will have to remove one bolt to adjust this. Or, what I would recommend to do professionally is to take it to your local pro shop or a shop with a bow press and tell them you need to adjust your draw length. I'm sure someone would be happy to rent their press out, no harder than this is to adjust.
So we're taking this Pro Line Inertia and we're adjusting the draw length on the fly. We're not losing any efficiency on this because PSE has just designed these wonderfully, just like the rest of their bows, so we don't have to have any modules - this is great.
So now we've got our module moved to the A position. We're going to move our cable stop to the A position as well. And now, I'm going to also show you one small trick to get to the comfort setting on these bows because that has been discussed in great detail over the phone ever since I put that video out.
So our module's in the 30" position and to access the comfort setting this is all we have to do, this is so simple it's awesome. All we have to do is loosen these three up, put it on 29 1/2". Do this for both ends - don't just do one end or it'll be all wonky and you'll be like "oh crap, I killed my bow." So definitely don't want to do that.
We're going to loosen these three up real quick. We are going to move them into the B position and tighten that back up. Now we have accessed our comfort setting for this bow. To set the limb stop what I'd recommend is to move it all the way out of the way and draw it back. Look over at it to see where it full drawed, don't pull it out beside you but just look past the limb here, see where it's at, and adjust it, let down, adjust it, let down, adjust it until it's set. Or, if you've got the access, a draw board is an excellent tool for that.
I hope you enjoyed my video on adjusting the draw length on the 2016 PSE lineup. Now all of that adjustment, all that stuff is the same deal with the Carbon Air, the Premonition HD, the Target line of bows. All of those bows, the same principles are at play. If you need to adjust the draw length on any of them bows, just keep in mind what we've learned today on this video and you'll be able to adjust them. Keep your screws tight, make sure the dowel is seated firmly into the letter position, and you should be good to go. Make sure you move that draw stop too - I've seen that happen a few times, not moving the stop.
If you have any questions you can give us a call at 870-475-DEER, you can stop by our website betteroutdoors.net, and as well you can send us a message on Facebook at Better Outdoors Archery & Bowhunting.
Safe shooting out there everybody, and we hope you enjoy it, because life is always better outdoors!